Humane Live Animal Two-Door Mouse Cage Trap

Bought this to catch a little mouse that's taken up residence in our garage. Didn't even know he was THERE until I put a plant that needed repotting out in the garage for a day till I could get around to repotting it. The next day, my plant was GONE (eaten) and there was dirt on the floor from the animal's digging.
What to do? NO WAY am I going to set a conventional mousetrap and kill a mouse and then empty the trap. Nope. Not happening.
I remembered seeing these at TAGreat.com & ordered it. Set the trap the day after I got it & CAUGHT the little guy within about 4 hours of setting it (I checked the trap hourly; used 2 kibbles of dry cat food for bait).
He was pretty nervous, so I covered the trap with a paper towel while I carried him out to a hedgerow, where I set him free (instructions said to minimize human contact so as to not stress the animal--I agree). Having read another reviewer's experience of a frightened mouse running up their arm, I planned ahead & put the trap in the hedgerow, on the ground, pointed so that no matter which direction he ran, it wouldn't be toward me. Then I just took off the paper towel & pressed down on the main trigger so both doors opened simultaneously. My little guy cautiously poked his nose out of the trap, took a couple of sniffs of air, & bolted like a shot.
Trap quality is excellent and it's very easy to set, once you get the "hang" of it. Just press down on the main trigger arm, make sure your 2 locking arms for the doors are positioned at the tops of the doors, bait the pivoting bait bar inside, then position the "baiting bar" over your "main trigger" bars. Easier than it sounds; you'll get printed instructions & photos in the box.
Highly recommended! And it will make you feel good to use a compassionate solution to your mouse problem.

• Constructed of sturdy rust-resistant wire mesh with steel reinforcements for long life and galvanized for maximum resistance to rust and corrosion
• Mesh openings help prevent escapes and stolen bait. Trigger rod is located outside of the trap so animal cannot damage it while in the trap
• Two gravity-action doors allow an animal to enter from either direction; sensitive trigger ensures quick, secure capture
• Solid door and handle guard protect the user during transportation, while smoothed internal edges protect and prevent injuries to animals
• Ideal for catching: mice, shrews, and similar-size nuisance animals

Have a question? Leave a comment & I'll be happy to help you if I can.
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UPDATE 9/22/15 Evening: Uh-oh. On a lark, I re-set the trap this afternoon. Just checked it 10 minutes ago. I caught ANOTHER one (smaller). Let her go & set the trap AGAIN. How many might we have? We'll see...
UPDATED UPDATE 9/24/16: OK. I did not know we had mice in the garage. Thanks to this trap, I've caught and released FOUR (Mama, Papa, & 2 cute babies). The trap's been set all day today & no takers, so maybe that was the extent of the family. I've learned one other tip: set the trap during the DAY so you can release during DAYLIGHT. Unless you don't mind setting mice free IN THE DARK. Personally, I can't bear to leave them caged once I've caught them, so I like to release as soon as they're caught. GREAT SYSTEM; most highly recommended for its utility and ease of use!
UPDATE #3 2/16/17: GUESS WHAT? Mice can run LOTS faster than humans can walk. I'd re-set the trap yesterday afternoon & didn't catch anything. Till 10:30 at NIGHT. Remember my advice about not setting the trap after dark? I didn't (remember). I should have sprung the trap at dark. But I didn't. So when I did one last check of the trap last night---SURPRISE!---I caught another one! And since it was late and very dark, I decided to just let him go in the front yard. Oops. He ran through the yard, down the driveway, and back into the garage before I could walk even 5 paces. Learn from me : ) DON'T DO THAT. Because, now I have to deal with a EDUCATED MOUSE. One who, having returned to the garage, now realizes the trap is a TRAP. I may have to upgrade my bait; time will tell : )
I still most highly recommend this mouse trap--it works!
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Best Easy Set Mouse Snap Trap

Newly designed Easy Set Snap Trap offers PMPs increased capturing power with no false triggers. With its sleek, easy-to-use design, this all-new aggressive snap trap comes with a more responsive and precise trigger mechanism, making it faster and easier to set than traditional wood traps. The new snap trap also features an integrated bait cup to hold a mouse attractant or bait, providing even better results. Made of durable plastic, it is strong enough to kill a mouse, yet it's safer to use around children and non-target animals. Place High Quality Snap Trap alone or back-to-back in pairs where mice travel. Mice enter the trap from the front or sides. High Quality Snap Trap's no-touch disposal is safe and easy

• state-of-the-art mechanical trap, it sets with one hand in one easy motion -- as easy as opening a clothespin.
• Add Provoke Mice to make these traps twice as attractive.
• Use High Quality Mini Snap Trap alone or in pairs with the opening toward the wall.
• Place the trap along walls where mice travel, in cupboards or whereever mice are present.
• Simply pinch the two ends together to release the mouse and the trap is automatically reset to be used over and over again.

Easy Set Plastic Mouse Snap Traps

Some notes about using these traps. As I say below, the bait cup can be removed from the bottom of the trap with a quarter-turn twist. Whatever you use for bait, do not let it project above the edge of the cup or get on the sides of the cup. That could allow a mouse to eat some, or all, of the bait without springing the trap, or springing it inappropriately. The traps should be placed on a flat surface either at 90 degrees to the run and an inch away from the wall or with 2 traps back to back (with the bait facing outwards) inside the run itself. Either method allows a mouse to enter the trap from any direction on the run. If used inside the house, traps should be placed about 8-10 feet apart or wherever you see the most activity. I have caught mice in surprising places when the traps are placed properly.
I have also had no success with the Provoke attractant. A combination of peanut butter and chocolate chip cookies (crushed) seems to work best. I keep the mixture pressed down into the bait cup and slightly concave so that it does not project from the top. The traps are easy to set by just squeezing the unbaited ends together, like a clothespin. The trigger should just snap into place. The nice thing about the traps is that they can give a clean kill from 3 directions, the front and either side, because of the serrated edge. It doesn't just squeeze. It grips.
I think the reason some of these traps fail to snap is because bait material gets caught in the trigger mechanism. The trigger paddle has to be kept scrupulously clean. That is why removing the cup and filling it outside the trap is important. The top of the cup should be leveled, or even dimpled, and the outside should be wiped clean before replacing it in the trap. A messy trigger area = no mice caught.
Also, be sure the trap is the proper size. There are mouse T-Rex traps and there are rat T-Rex traps. Neither one is good for the other species.
These traps provide a really quick kill for mice; but are surprisingly non-lethal to human hands. I have an aged mother who thinks nothing of sticking her fingers in an armed trap and luckily she came out with nothing more than a bruise. On the other hand, mice are dispatched so quickly, there is no time for reaction (as long as the trap is placed properly perpendicular to the wall and about an inch away from it). The saw tooth pattern grabs and holds with minimal spring tension. It is easy to dispose of the mouse with just one hand - if you don't mind actually seeing the critter as you do so.
Also, I don't remember seeing anyone mention it; but the bait cups can be removed from the bottom of the trap with a quick twist and filled to the proper level without having to work around the trigger mechanism. That makes it easy to empty stale bait and refill the cup outside of the trap proper and just replace it back inside for setting. The trap stays relatively clean of stray bait. I use a peanut butter base with a tiny bit of chocolate chip cookie stuck in it for extra attractiveness. If there is a mouse anywhere nearby, it will definitely go for the peanut-chocolate combo.
In spite of all that, I still wouldn't put these where pets or children could access them. There are enclosed bait stations that have room for these traps in them and force the mouse to approach in the correct position for a clean kill. Use those if toddlers or animals are around.
Also, these are kill traps. If you want to catch and release, consider a live trap.
Click to check the current prices: Mouse Snap Traps

The Best Way To Get Rid Of Mice Fast

Mouse Glue Traps

My husband and sons prefer glue traps - and these work great. Have used them for many years with great success. But the deal is - if we catch a mouse this way - THEY have to take it out to the garbage. They bait with a little bit of peanut butter right in middle.
I like these! The glue is sticky, but not so sticky that I can't get my finger out of it, or that a cat won't be able to get a paw out.
I don't use these for mice, but I find they are excellent for trapping spiders and bugs. I have a friend who had a brown recluse problem, and they used glue traps to eliminate the problem. These are better than the old kind though - they are sticky enough, but not so sticky that a PERSON can't get out of them. Once I stepped on one of my old traps and I couldn't get it off my shoe!
I had 6 of these to test, and I stuck my finger in one- deep- and though it stuck well, it was no problem to get it off. It didn't hurt my finger in any way. I took some of the color out of the picture to try to show that there was NO residue on my finger.
They don't have a smell. They are easy to use. I even like that they are not as long - the old kind was BAD NEWS when we got a cat trapped in one. We never thought we'd have a cat decide to go behind a small crack between a wall and chest, but she did. These shorter traps might catch ONE paw- which can be removed easily- but they won't catch SEVERAL OR ALL paws like the older kinds did.
I like that they are non-toxic. Tomcat is a good brand, and I'm glad to see them innovating the glue traps like this. These catch the big palmetto bugs too and if you use some duct tape to tape them to the side of a window sill, close to the top, they catch those big crane flies pretty quick.
These would be big enough for small mice, but would NOT work for large mice or rats, they'd be too short.
There is also the risk of songbirds (even protected species), chipmunks, and even squirrels getting stuck in the glue traps if used in outdoor or semi-enclosed areas. Other larger, yet small animals can also be at risk if they can reach the trap, such as your dogs or cats. If your cat gets it paw stuck in one of the traps, it's going to cost you a trip to the vet for some expensive surgical removal. The glue is really sticky and will likely tear the flesh from the pads of the cat's foot if you try to remove it yourself.
So keep in mind just how indiscriminate glue traps are, they will stick to anything that touches them. Use caution when and where you place them, and be ready for any possible liabilities that arise from not using them properly or thinking through the placement well enough.
Click to check the current prices: Mouse Glue Traps

How to Get Rid of a Mouse from a Glue Trap?

Mouse Glue Traps

Certainly no, you can not simply just trash the squirm in vermin. In the event that you're the proud possessor of a mouse stuck to a sticky trap, in that case you're stuck with the challenge of putting the creature out of its misery.

The pest control company left one or two glue traps in my yard and a mouse was stuck by one of them. It's a painful process and also inhumane to let the mouse die in the glue trap, so I am searching for a way to kill a glue-trapped mouse in a way that meets the following requirements: humane ( needs to be quick and effective), safe and sound (I got bit when I tried to remove the mouse from the board), clean (ideally just kill and throw into trash bin). I am just considering spending $20-$50 on a stun gun, nevertheless I'm not sure if a stun gun can kill a mouse in a couple of seconds.

Whack It

Use a solid glove (the gardening kind is recommended ). Flip a Ziplock or perhaps similar plastic bag inside out and cover your glove by using it. Firmly get hold of the mouse (and its associated trap) by using your gloved, "plasticked" hand and with your free hand, roll the Ziplock back out and so you can seal it completely, with the mouse trapped inside. Place it on the floor, preferably a driveway or garage. Whack the poor thing with a heavy magazine or possibly a shoe; make sure that you hit its head for near-instantaneous death. It has already suffered enough; this will help it pass on sooner. Just after you do this, please make sure you clear away all the glue traps your pest control folks installed.

Stomp It

Quick, humane, and even approved by the United States Marine Corps. Ooh-rah! ('Course when you're done you have to clean out the waffle with a stick, nevertheless what the hell, you are not able to have everything, right? )

Gas It

Reported by Cait McKeown, a National Mice Club (UK) member and judge, the most humane method of mouse euthanasia is chloroform. The fact is that, the chemical is hazardous (even deadly in high dosage) to humans as well as mice, so it's challenging to obtain. Also impractical for a lot of people, veterinarians sometimes use halothane or another anesthetic gas. Using these methods, the mouse becomes unconscious not having pain before death.

Many other methods, including breaking the neck, decapitation, drowning, and freezing are painful for the mouse. This may or may not be an problem for you since these are not pet mice, but a lot of people will have a problem in execution. The "quick" methods might not be so quick if you make a mistake. Probably the ideal method is a CO2 chamber such as those used by herpetologists before freezing rodents for food. The most inexpensive source of concentrated carbon dioxide is dry ice, but the National Institutes of Health (NIH) recommends compressed CO2 gas in cylinders as a way to control the inflow of gas.

Their guidelines are: Without pre-charging the chamber, place the animal(s) in the chamber and introduce 100% carbon dioxide. A fill rate of about 10% to 30% of the chamber volume per minute with carbon dioxide, added to the existing air in the chamber should be appropriate to achieve a balanced gas mixture to fulfill the objective of rapid unconsciousness with minimal distress to the animals. (Example for a 10-liter volume chamber, use a flow rate of 1 to 3 liter(s) per minute. ) Sudden exposure of conscious animals to carbon dioxide concentrations of 70% or greater has been shown to be distressful. If you regularly use sticky traps to control mice, you might consider building a CO2 chamber-there are plenty of designs out there. However I personally choose using snap traps that provide a much quicker death as well as are easy to dispose of.

Don't agree with the solutions previously mentioned? Have your own expertise to contribute?

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Best Mouse Glue Traps

Mouse Glue Traps

These work! Trust me we tried EVERYTHING before resorting to glue traps as I know they can be considered cruel. A mouse was eluding us, my cats and snap traps too for 3 months since I moved into this house. We tried everything from sweets to sours to salty bates, even the TomCat bait, but with NO luck. Since we have cats and appreciate the wildlife outside we can't use poison so had to resort to something else because mouse poop and pee are incredibly unsanitary for my elderly mother. I set these smallish traps out with a very tiny bit of bait in the very middle. Remember DO NOT TOUCH any part of the trap with your bare hands, use kitchen gloves. I chose cashews, bbq sauce, TomCat bait, bread, caramel and a bit of cooked broccoli rabe. It was the broccoli that worked oddly enough. Having to put the mouse out of its misery after being caught is not fun but doable. I didn't feel as guilty as it was less than 20min after he was caught and I was able to do it with a pumpkin. So as long as you know you have to "take care of " the mouse after then you're good, these work.
These arrived today. I bought 2 packs of 6 (12 traps total). I honestly thought it would take a few days to use all of the traps, but nope! In less than 12 hours, I already caught 9 mice. I just laid out my last 2 traps and relocated 1 of the traps I previously laid out to a spot that I found pretty successful.
For those that have an issues catching the mice, what I did was that I put a bit of Palmiers crumbs at the center (not too much, only about 1-2 cm in length of crumbs). It seems like the mice really love this puff pastry.
Put the traps in places that isn't out in the open since mice don't really run around in the open. For example, I put a trap between two bins that I know the mice likes to hang around at (since the bins contains food & goodies). I normally put the traps on the floor, around the area that I generally spot these little guys.
Seeing as how I ran out of traps so fast, i'm already ordering more.
Click to check the current prices: Mouse Glue Traps